Valetta, come rain or shine

December 25, 2023

When we arrived in Valetta, Malta’s capital city, the sun was shining, although the storm clouds on the horizon suggested this would change soon…. That wasn’t going to stop us visiting St John’s Co-Cathedral though - and what a riot of ornamentation and colour it is!

So many details to see…

Perhaps the most ornate pulpit I’ve ever seen!

A spiral staircase led us up to see the arched ceiling from a closer perspective.

A spot of drama along the corridor to the stairs…

From the Cathedral we wandered down to the harbour to visit the fort which has played such an important role in Malta’s defence over the centuries. I wasn’t moved to take many photos in the museum, but the chapel was enchanting.

After lunch the weather broke and we were treated to an apocalyptic thunderstorm - real Hollywood special effects rain. I caught this view across the harbour between heavy bouts of rain and just before we got absolutely drowned by a downpour!

Photos taken 22 November 2023

Exploring Mdina and Rabat

December 24, 2023

Several times we found ourselves driving past the walled city of Mdina, not far from our hotel, so eventually we decided to go and take a closer look. Founded in the 8th century, this beautiful fortified spot was the capital of Malta, although that honour falls to Valetta today. It’s full of narrow streets which are just called out to be explored and I found myself taking lots of photos here.

Just inside the gate stands St Peters Monastery, which is still lived in by nuns today. Part of the monastery is open to the public so we went inside and once again I felt the call of black and white…

The old working areas of the monastery, in the basement, were so atmospheric, although I suspect life here would have been quite tough.

I always find old chairs photogenic, especially when they cam with such lovely shadows!

Just round the corner we visited the Natural History Museum. Many of the displays were a little dry, but it had some very photogenic corners!

Eventually we arrived at the Metropolitan Cathedral, whose ornate architecture just had to be photographed in full colour!

A small selection of the narrow streets, each of them unique.

We then left the walled city and went out into Rabat, which is really a continuation of the same city. Again, more characterful, narrow streets. I’m curious as to why you’d hang a bicycle on the wall of your house - especially when it’s too high up to be of practical use!

A trio of colourful doors - I could have spent hours seeking out more but the light was fading fast…

Photos taken 21 November 2023

Golden Bay in monochrome

December 23, 2023

After a morning of exploring Mosta we returned to our hotel for some relaxation time. After an hour or two spent reading my book I decided I’d head out and exploring the coastline around the hotel. A narrow, rocky path led me down to the shore of Golden Bay, where I experimented with some slow shutter speed exposures to capture some movement in the waves.

From there I continued along the base of the cliffs to investigate the many boat houses which line the bay. I didn’t want to intrude on those using them with my camera, but this little outhouse captured my imagination, with its weathered walls and sharp shadows.

Looking up the cliffs towards our hotel.

After a steep climb back to the top I found lots of old structures littering the rough land surrounding our hotel. They seem to be neglected today but I wonder what they were for originally? The zigzag shadows leading me to this one particularly caught my eye…

Photos taken 19 November 2023

The Dome of Mosta

December 22, 2023

Kevin visited Malta with his family as a child and the dome at Mosta was one of the places he clearly remembered seeing while he was there.

We began by climbing the steeps stairs up to the dome, where you can see the world beyond the cathedral square, as well as getting closer to the internal structure.

This is the third largest unsupported dome in the world and one we almost lost. In April 1942 a German bomb pierced the dome, but miraculously failed to explode. The bomb was disposed of at sea, but there’s a similar one on display in the shop.

Looking down into the centre of the nave.

I had to stitch lots of photos together to create this panorama, but it gives an idea of the scale of this amazing building.

The dome was definitely the star of the show for me and I took so many photos. It would be fascinating to spend a day here, watching the path of the sun across its interior…

Walking back down from the dome I was enchanted by the spiral staircase, which seemed best captured in monochrome.

Below the church is the crypt, which is equally atmospheric. I wonder what all these pipes are intended for?

Such soft but dramatic light.

Back outside, I spent some time exploring the lines of the huge stone columns.

Photos taken 20 November 2023

Christ Church Cathedral, Dublin

December 4, 2023

A couple days after my visit to Trinity College I did some more exploring around Dublin, starting off at Christ Church Cathedral. A decade ago I visited St Patrick’s Cathedral, so it was great to compare the two and I wasn’t disappointed - so many wonderful lines and details to photograph.

A vertiginous view of the Cathedral’s vaulting.

Photos taken 23 October 2023

Long Room, Trinity College Dublin

December 2, 2023

When I knew I’d be visiting Dublin this autumn there was one place in particular I wanted to return to - the Long Room at Trinity College. On my last visit I took a handful of photos here but it was very dark and very busy with tourists so I never really felt I got the best from this iconic library. On this occasion there were still many tourists, but I had more time and was able to work around them.

The low light levels were still a challenge, but I went armed with my fastest lenses, even if I couldn’t use a tripod. I’m sure this glorious library still has more to offer, photographically speaking, but I feel I’ve made a step in the right direction.

Historically all the busts in the Long Room have featured men, but recently they’ve been joined by four women, including the noted chemist Rosalind Franklin.

Photos taken 20 October 2023

In the footsteps of Charles Rolls

October 26, 2023

I love visiting the beautiful redundant churches cared for by the Friends of the Friendless Churches, but on occasion it does take some persistence! Finding St Cadoc's in Llangattock-Vibon-Avel, near Monmouth, proved to be a serious challenge. It’s hidden away down a long drive, from where you park in a field of sheep and then have to walk through yet another field before you even reach the churchyard!

My first attempt to find St Cadoc’s failed, but once I’d backtracked to a place with a phone signal to check the exact location I finally made it and it was worth the effort!

Arches everywhere. Click on any image to see it enlarged.

I’m always fascinated by church vestries, with the detritus of church life left lying around.

Charles Rolls (of Rolls Royce fame) was a local boy and I found his grave in the churchyard, as well as a family memorial inside the church.

One of the locals was eyeing me up as I returned to my car!

Photos taken 14 September 2023

In search of slow photography

October 25, 2023

Every so often I feel the need for some slow photography - my cue to get a pinhole camera out and find a suitable location for some low-tech imagery. Back in August I decided to follow my nose and ended up at Debden Church.

I had a few frames to finish off with my 6x9 camera so I used these in and around the churchyard, before heading inside to take some square format photos with my 6x6 camera.

A ghostly self portrait in the church porch.

The view of the chancel

Click on any image to see it enlarged.

A final glimpse of the porch before I set off for home.

Photos taken 4 August 2023

Farewell to Dillington House

October 3, 2023

For the last fifteen years I’ve had a the pleasure of teaching at Dillington House in Somerset. Sadly it was announced earlier this year that 49 years of history would come to an end and the house is being handed back to its owners. While I was there for my final course in May I took the opportunity to capture a few photos of this wonderful place - I shall miss it terribly.

On the Cathedral trail

September 30, 2023

Every so often I get the opportunity to visit an unfamiliar Cathedral, although I’ve been to so many this happens less frequently these days. Back in July my work took me to the midlands so this was the excuse I needed to visit Lichfield Cathedral for the first time.

Things began rather inauspiciously. As I walked towards the Cathedral I realised they’d erected a swathe of scaffolding around the spire. Not a wonderful sight, but it was raining and the skies were leaden so my chances of taking beautiful photos of the exterior were always going to be limited. As I walked towards the west door I was met by the Dean - what a lovely welcome. Sadly not - he was there to greet an incoming funeral! Although I was invited to sit and admire the nave during the service I politely declined and went in search of a cuppa.

An hour later I returned. The funeral party had departed and I pretty much had Lichfield Cathedral to myself - that’s exactly what I had hoped for! I spent a couple of hours exploring every corner of the building, looking sweeping architectural shots and smaller details too.

In the choir I sat quietly on a step, aiming my camera beneath the rope which closed the area off to the public. One of the vergers spotted me and asked if I’d like to go inside - an offer I wasn’t going to turn down! This is the photo I was taking at the time, but being allowed inside the choir gave me opportunities I’d otherwise have missed and I was grateful for the verger’s kindness.

Behind the high altar I discovered this wonderful crown hanging from the vaulting. I suspect the candles are electric rather than wax, but that doesn’t detract from the design.